![]() ![]() If you have a means to gauge pressure, maintaining 7-9 PSI is typically ideal. That’s why some breweries have people who specialize in casks, typically known as the cellerman. Over-pressurizing can result in a higher carbonated beer that is not in the spectrum of real ale, or worse cause a geyser of beer to shoot from the vessel! Controlling this aspect of cask-conditioning can be quite tricky, and it takes some experience to dial in. With both casks and kegs, it is important to have the ability to vent off excess gas during maturation, if needed. But don’t let that discourage you! Many homebrewers have had great success using a Cornelius (aka “corny”) keg in a slightly unconventional way to achieve the same cask conditioned profile, which is discussed in more detail below. There are also kilderkins (18 imperial gallons), barrels (36 imperial gallons) and hogsheads (54 imperial gallons), though these tend to be much less common.Ĭasks have become much easier for homebrewers to obtain, though they can be a bit pricey sometimes. Chances are you’ve seen one of these at your neighborhood brewery. The most common cask is a firkin, which is 9 imperial gallons and shaped like a mini-barrel. ![]() Casks were traditionally made of wood, but these days are normally stainless steel or plastic since they are easier to clean and sanitize compared to its wooden forefather. As the name eludes, the traditional means utilizes an actual cask. Selecting a Serving VesselĬask conditioning can be conducted in a few different vessels, allowing for some flexibility to the homebrewer who may have space or equipment restraints. Real ale should be carbonated to one volume of CO 2 or less, but contrary to what some believe, real ale is never served flat (non-carbonated). This duration not only allows for the conditioning to complete, but also the beer to have time to drop clear. A good rule of thumb is the higher-strength the beer, the longer the maturation period should be. Some beers may only need 24 hours, while others require weeks or even months. The length of time in the cask before serving will vary depending on the beer style. ![]() Dry hops and other ingredients, like fruit, are sometimes added to the cask, too. Depending on the style and when the beer is racked, some brewers will add a bit of sugar in the secondary to give the yeast something to ferment and condition the beer. Fining agents, like isinglass, are also common to help further promote beer clarity, which is a hallmark of real ale. It is crucial to carry over enough viable yeast from primary into the serving vessel to ensure secondary fermentation will complete. The brewing process is exactly the same as any other homebrew day, with the difference occurring after primary fermentation.Īs fermentation nears completion, the wort is transferred to the vessel in which it will be served from to undergo secondary fermentation and ultimately the “cask conditioning” process. How to Brew Real AleĬAMRA’s definition of real ale is specifically in regard to traditional British styles, but really any style of beer can be cask conditioned and served as such. The push for authentic real ale is much less of a matter in the United States compared to Great Britain, but the interest in serving cask-conditioned beer is becoming more and more prevalent at state-side watering holes and among homebrewers. To the homebrewer, this may sound like any bottle conditioned beer is technically real ale, but the British-based group Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) uses the term to specifically refer to traditional British beer styles (bitters, stouts, pale ales, etc.) that were served at cellar temperatures (52-57° F) and a specific low level of carbonation (<1 vol. What is Real Ale?īy definition, “real ale” is a name for draught (or bottled) beer brewed from traditional ingredients, matured by secondary fermentation in the container from which it is dispensed, and served without the use of extraneous carbon dioxide. Who says you can’t have your own “Firkin Friday” at your homebrewery? We took a look at what makes beer “real ale,” how to cask condition and serve your real ale and a heated debate that surrounds the real ale campaign. ![]()
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